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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee familiar high-end names. However, nestled prominently among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has made the family totally astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small place earning such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its former charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary triumph.